Restaurant Under, nestled at the southernmost point of the Norwegian coast, reopened this spring with an entirely new team both in the kitchen and the dining room. This architectural marvel, often hailed as one of the world's most spectacular buildings, has returned after a brief closure, taking bold strides towards a sustainable future.
Approaching the monolithic structure perched on the cliffs of Båly in Spangereid, at Norway’s southern tip, is an experience like no other. The 34-meter-long restaurant descends into the water, resembling a sunken ship with its bow submerged, resting against the seabed. Entering through its doors and descending the stairs to the dining room, located five and a half meters below sea level, is a breathtaking adventure. The sea refracts the light streaming into the room, creating mesmerizing, undulating shades of blue.
Designed by the renowned Norwegian architectural firm Snøhetta, the building opened its doors in 2019 amid much fanfare. The brainchild of entrepreneurial brothers Stig and Gaute Ubostad, the restaurant spans 495 square meters and seats 42 guests, making it the world’s largest underwater dining venue. Its panoramic 26 cm thick window offers a stunning view of the seabed, where diners can enjoy the company of diverse marine life, including fish, sea stars, and jellyfish.
For Snøhetta, constructing Restaurant Under was a formidable challenge. The structure needed to withstand natural forces like water pressure, waves, and harsh weather, all while being mindful of the delicate marine ecosystem. Over time, the building is expected to integrate into its marine surroundings, with the rough concrete shell functioning as an artificial reef, attracting limpets and kelp.
Upon its initial opening in 2019, the restaurant, under the leadership of Chef Nicolai Ellitsgaard, quickly made a name for itself by showcasing the culinary diversity of southern Norway’s ocean and land. The tasting menu earned Under a Michelin star within its first year. In winter 2023, the restaurant closed for a concept overhaul, reopening in March with Bernt Sætre as the new head chef, Lill Karina Bøhn as the new restaurant manager and Jonathan Anstett as the new head sommelier.
"I previously served as head chef at Lindesnes Havhotell and was involved in the new concept from the start, so it felt natural to take over," says Bernt, who has an extensive background in renowned Norwegian restaurants, including Tango and Anger in Stavanger, Bølgen og Moi in Oslo, and his own establishment for many years. The Ubostad brothers had long courted him to relocate to Lindesnes, and with a son living nearby in Flekkefjord, Bernt finally agreed. "It was serendipity, as with all things. There was a process to revamp Under, and being involved from the start as a consultant, we realized it was best for me to take the helm."
Under 2.0, as it is informally known, aims to be more accessible while maintaining high ambitions. The tasting menu has been streamlined from up to 20 courses to eleven. Sustainability has always been pivotal at Under, but now it is the core guiding principle. "We strive to be as uncompromising as nature itself. We aim for sustainability in every aspect—not just environmentally and in terms of natural resources, but also considering staff well-being and economic viability. Mental health is crucial too," Bernt emphasizes.
Collaborating closely with local producers and highlighting pristine ingredients is central to Under’s philosophy. "We want the food to be heartfelt, honest, and personal. Of course, we aim to deliver a top-tier product, but we also want to be more approachable than before," Bernt explains. His ingredient-focused approach is inspired by the natural surroundings. "Nature fascinates and inspires me. I believe this is evident on the plate in the food we prepare. I want the ingredients to shine."
The team at Under includes also Arnold Engeli, who handles R&D and has a background in running a fish shop, and Swedish-born Jonathan Anstett, with experience in acclaimed Swedish restaurants like Ichi and Symbios, was drawn to Norway by its unique ingredients and natural beauty.
"We aim for sustainability even in our beverage program. We currently offer a Norwegian mead made in a historically accurate style, and a similar non-alcoholic beverage made from honey sourced locally. The honey reflects the terroir gathered by the bees. We add it to a drink made from rowanberries steeped in syrup, giving it a marzipan-like flavor," Jonathan shares with enthusiasm.
Jonathan is particularly proud of the restaurant's non-alcoholic beverage offerings and looks forward to expanding them. "As the season progresses, we can gather and preserve ingredients. We aim to create a complete gastronomic experience, whether you drink wine or not," he says.
Jonathan describes Bernt’s cooking as rich and assured. "The menu is dynamic, with frequent changes, but we do have a few mainstays," Bernt notes. One such dish is the monkfish, grilled with a lavender glaze, served with broccoli and a sauce made from poached cream and peas. "We make everything from scratch here—our sourdough bread, koji, and the pea sauce from yellow peas," Chef Sætre proudly states.
Under has retained its Michelin star, an accolade reaffirmed when the red guide awarded its stars in late May. Both Bernt Sætre and Jonathan Anstett are thrilled, even though it was not their primary goal. "Earning a star was never my driving force, but I certainly have ambitions to deliver at that level. I see Michelin stars as a bonus," Chef Sætre concludes.
