Lakes and gastronomic gems sparkle everywhere in Carinthia. The combination makes the region a treasure trove for holistic enjoyment.
Nohe lake is asleep. Still and waveless, it lies like a velvety cloth in the landscape. Wisps of early morning mist hang over the surface of the water, a duck emerges from the glittering backlight of the rising sun. It excitedly quacks its way to land while its own feet dangle from the jetty, just too briefly to tickle the lake awake. When it comes to kitsch, Lake Wörthersee doesn't mess around. It's a big one. The best place to verify this is the Pyramidenkogel. At 100 metres, it is the highest wooden observation tower in the world. This superlative guarantees an overview. You can see the undramatic bands of hills that frame the lake. You can marvel at the rock formations of the border mountains to the south, which protect the lake. And you will recognise many of the must-visit culinary addresses on a cycle tour around Carinthia's largest bathing lake.
The loop leads from the Klagenfurt lido via the north bank to Velden and back again via the south bank road; just under 40 largely flat kilometres and manageable. After a first panoramic stop on the Pörtschach peninsula, where the lake and the Karawanken mountain backdrop lie at your feet on the jetty of Jilly Beach (a good sunset spot!), the route continues a short distance to the Schloss Seefels hotel. With La Terrasse and Porto Bello, two gastronomic hotspots await you here along the Austrian Riviera.
Carinthia's largest lake owes this name not only to the high density of casually luxurious or spruced-up historic properties along its shores, but also to its sparkling doorpale blue-green colour. It is created by a mix of algae, sunlight, its scattering and reflection as well as lime particles washed in from the mountains via the tributaries. "These particles scatter the light and create the characteristic colouration," explains Maria Friedl from the Institute for Lake Research, who conducted a comprehensive study on Lake Wörthersee in 2021. And while plankton and therefore the fish dive into deeper layers in summer, more and more guests seeking refreshment are diving into the lake. The Mediterranean climate in the middle of the Alps and the pleasant water temperature have a magnetic effect.
The route continues via Saag to Velden. The Schlosshotel is an ideal place for a break halfway along the route. The beautiful yellow building at the western end of the lake dominates the bay and the view over the water seems endless. There are no limits to the culinary delights on offer either – with a gourmet double-pack: a dinner in the castle's own Seespitz, where Thomas Gruber shines with seasonal slow food creations, plus a five-course menu the following day in the restaurant of Hubert Wallner – a multi-award-winning top local chef – in Maria Wörth. The promise there is "a symphony of flavours that enchants the senses".
Wallner's flavour-rich cross-over works of art provide the culinary magic, while the terrace view of the lake and the nearby Gothic pilgrimage church, which stands like a lighthouse on a rocky peninsula, is a feast for the eyes. The choice is yours: you can either enjoy the sunset in the open-air ambience or indoors in the stylish restaurant - both are reserved and tables are only allocated once per evening. Stress and hectic? Such notions are banned at this gourmet address, which opened three years ago.
From Maria Wörth, the last part of the lake circuit takes you past Reifnitz and Maiernigg with Gustav Mahler's composer's house. To finish, you continue along the Sattnitz towards the Lendkanal and back to the starting point.
It is just under ninety minutes by car from the Austrian Riviera to the Caribbean of the Alps. The Weißensee is known by this nickname – which has admittedly been used several times – in reference to the clarity of its water, in which no suspended matter clouds the view. This quality is not only appreciated by divers and swimmers, but also by fishermen who catch trout, pike, carp and perch from the lake. They are processed into high-quality specialities in – nomen est omen – restaurant Die Forelle, for example. "We only cook and process produce from Austrian agriculture that is ripe, common, typical and of the highest quality, harvested in the respective seasons," says Hannes Müller, outlining the guiding principle of his Berg.See.Küche.
In addition to fish from the lake, the list of ingredients also includes Carniolan stone sheep from the restaurant's own Zöhrer farm, which is several hundred years old. The menu is complemented by an extensive range of wines and a stunning view of the lake. It owes its name to the white lake chalk banks, which were formed by lime particles washed in from the surrounding mountains of the southern Limestone Alps, the remains of snail shells and crystallised lime from algae and plant species.
Like a fjord, Lake Weissensee stretches for around twelve, largely unspoiled kilometres through a valley carved into the landscape by the former Drau Glacier at the foot of the Gailtal Alps. At its widest point, the lake, which is fed by several underground springs, measures just 900 metres; at its narrowest point, the Weißensee bridge spans the water. The cul-de-sac to the east leads to the Loewenzahn, where a young team of chefs led by Jakob Lilg and Marcell Kunej celebrate upscale, but not pretentious gourmet cuisine, which also delights the eye of the beholder thanks to its artful preparation.
50 kilometres to the northwest lies Lake Millstatt, not the largest or highest of Carinthia's lakes, but at over 140 metres, it is the deepest and richest in water. Twelve lidos and five free lake access points invite you to swim, while top gastronomic addresses from Seeboden to Millstatt to Döbriach spoil you with promises of culinary delights.
These can be found at the See-Villa 1884, where a new à la carte restaurant has been built to celebrate the 140th anniversary. Christian Unterzaucher treats guests to a mix of modern international and traditional regional cuisine, with a focus on freshly caught fish, herbs from the hotel's own garden and game from the hotel's own hunt. The whole variety of the region is served on your plate. The Seefischer in Döbriach follows the same high quality standards. On the harbour veranda, aromatic creations with an Alpe-Adria touch are served in the form of sophisticated five-course menus. The sixth course? The view into the sunset, when the water glistens richly, the hustle and bustle of the day subsides and the lake slowly falls asleep.
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