The largest of the Ionian Islands is overshadowed by its sisters in terms of tourism. Wrongly. With its villa villages and plenty of nature, Kefalonia is not only beautiful. The island is also rich in history.
Unbelievable really, but Kefalonia can still be considered an insider tip to this day. And this despite the fact that it is the largest of the Ionian Islands, located on the west coast of the country. The fact that even many Greece fans don't have the island on their radar is mainly due to its more touristy sisters Corfu and Zakynthos.
Kefalonia lovers are grateful for this. After all, this has made it possible to preserve the authentic charm of many corners of the island. If you start your journey via Kefalonia, one thing will immediately catch your eye: The island is atypically colorful by Greek standards. The classic blue and white of the houses does not dominate the picture here. On Kefalonia, the house facades are colorful, sometimes in bold combinations. The row of houses in the small northern town of Assos is well-known, but it is by no means the most worth seeing. You can still visit Assos, after all, Myrtos Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, is practically around the corner.
The south of the island is exciting, where the hilly region of Livathos lies at the foot of Mount Enos, a national park. More than two dozen wealthy villages, all with names ending in -ata, make up the residential area of Kefalonia. The gardens are unusually green and well-kept, magnificent oleanders line the streets. Not only did the British poet Lord Byron once live here, today the region is a magnet for the island's high society, and many a wealthy Athenian has built a small villa here. Apartments and studios for tourists, naturally with private pools, have also been built recently.
This part of the island is also historically interesting – sometimes in a tragic way: this is where the National Socialists committed one of their war crimes in 1943. The Italian soldiers stationed on the island during the Second World War were disarmed and had surrendered when the Germans rounded them up and killed them by the thousands.
Worth a visit is the medieval fortress of Agios Georgios, visible from afar, which long formed the centre of the island. It is still impressive today – and you should also make a culinary stop here. In the restaurant Il Borgo you sit on the vine-covered terrace and overlook the region, but much more important is the authentic island cuisine that can be tasted here.
In addition to creatopita, a meat pie that combines three types of meat (beef, pork and goat), with a bit of luck you can also get a traditional Kefalonian rabbit stew, an (even) more rustic version of the stifado. You should definitely not miss it.
Speaking of culinary delights: the market at the port of the island's capital Argostoli is also worth a visit – for the colourful fresh fruit and vegetables, but above all for an animal attraction. When the fishermen return in the morning, they are accompanied by a few specimens of the endangered Caretta caretta sea turtles hoping for fish waste. Argostoli gives a modern impression, which again has to do with the history of the island: in 1953, it was hit by a major earthquake that almost completely destroyed the town and other parts of the island. While Argostoli was being rebuilt, the population left many a village for good – see insider tip. The imposing Agiou Gerasimou monastery, the religious centre of the island, was also rebuilt: the island saint Gerasimou is buried here, and in the old church you can descend into the crypt where he is said to have practiced asceticism.
Although you have to share the experience with other tourists, a visit to the caves at Sami is almost unavoidable: there is an underground lake in the Melissani Cave – and because part of the ceiling of the cave has collapsed, the crystal-clear water shimmers with the most beautiful colours in the sunlight. You can visit the cave by boat. You can descend on foot into the Drogarati Cave and admire stalagmites and stalactites up to three metres long in an underground hall.
The temperatures here are pleasant in summer: it is a constant 18 degrees. The acoustics are also worth experiencing: they are so good that concerts are held here in the summer months.
Explore lost places
After the 1953 earthquake, some villages remained uninhabited – such as Alt Valsamata and Alt Vlachata. Nature reclaimed them. Today, they are lost places where explorers can wander through the ruins and find impressive photo opportunities. Finding the way to the villages is an adventure in itself.
Relais/Chateaux Eliamos Villas
Design lovers will find privacy in this boutique hotel. Owner Maike Gruna makes the interior design of the twelve luxury villas a project close to her heart.
Spartia, 281 00 Kefalonia
T: +30 2671 171100, eliamos.com
F Zeen Kefalonia
The extensive grounds of F Zeen Kefalonia, which focuses on wellness including a hammam, extend over ten hectares.
Lourdas Beach Road, 28083 Livathos
T: +30 26710 31419, fzeenretreats.com
Canale Hotel & Suite
This Ionian-style boutique hotel, which has been family-run for generations, is located directly by the sea in the capital of Kefalonia, Argostoli.
I. Metaxa 42 Str, 28100 Argostoli
T: +30 26710 22225, canalehotel.com
Il Borgo
In a shady arbor, you can look out over the sea as far as Zakynthos. Great seafood, but also classic stews with a gourmet touch.
Castle of Saint George, Travliata, Kefalonia
T: +30 26710 69800, ilborgo.gr
Tra Due
You can feel the proximity to Italy: at Fiskaro, Michelin-starred chef Lefteris Lazarou adds a delicate high-end touch to classic Italian dishes.
Kavvadia square, 28084 Fiskardo, Kefalonia
T: +30 267 4041773, tradue.gr
Terre Mouikis
The focus is on herbs and produce from the region - from wild leeks to borage. Fine dining in a minimalist, elegant atmosphere.
Stavrou Metaxa 10, 28100 Argostoli, Kefalonia
T: +30 2671024091, terremouikis.gr
