Despite its small size, Cyprus, a predominantly Greek state in the EU, boasts a remarkably eventful history. Situated at the crossroads of Africa, Asia, and Europe, the island thrives on a unique blend of cultural influences that continue to shape its identity today.
Our weekend starts on the south coast of Cyprus, in the historic port city of Limassol. With 180,000 inhabitants, it is only the second largest city on the island, but due to its hustle and bustle it is the only one that feels like a metropolis. The once important Roman trading post is now a busy port of call for cruise ships – and with more than 60 shipping companies based there, it is the largest shipping management center in Europe. Under the name "Limassol Marina", a completely new district was built here in record time in 2012 in the very best seaside location – with exclusive luxury apartments, numerous shopping facilities, restaurants and its own marina with over 650 berths.
To the east, this luxury quarter merges into the picturesque and beautiful Molos waterfront promenade, which runs like a path through a six-hectare green area that is rightly considered one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. From there, it is only a few minutes' walk to the heart of the old town with Limassol's landmark: the castle. According to tradition, a real celebrity wedding took place there in the Middle Ages. None other than the legendary Richard the Lionheart is said to have married Berengaria of Navarre in this stone building on May 12, 1191, after he had freed her from the clutches of the Cypriot emperor and subsequently occupied the entire island.
A stone's throw away is the Kebir Mosque, a building that bears witness to Cyprus' turbulent past like no other: during the Venetian rule of the island, the house of prayer was converted into a Catholic church, but returned to its original use during the Ottoman occupation and has retained this status throughout Cyprus' time as a British colony to this day.
We end the day with meze, a type of Cypriot tapas that also exists in Turkey under the same name. In addition to the architecture, it is above all the cuisine that best illustrates the many different cultural influences on Cyprus. Greeks, Romans, Arabs, French, Venetians, Turks – and, due to their proximity, Lebanese and Egyptians - have all left their mark on Cypriot cuisine – only the English have failed to do so. And it's not hard to guess why.
In the cozy "Meze Tavern", you are served one portion of the Cypriot national dish after another on small plates: fried eggplants, coriander artichokes in red wine, lamb kofta, deep-fried sardines, fish roe puree, gratinated olive bread, grilled octopus, talatouri, a Cypriot version of tzatziki that contains mint and lemon juice instead of vinegar, braised kid, fried challúmi with balsamic sauce and many, many more. If there is one thing that characterizes the Cypriots, it is their generosity towards strangers, which is truly amazing for a people who have been at the mercy of new conquerors and occupiers for thousands of years.
Yesterday we learned that Cypriots never miss an opportunity to serve up a big meal. Unfortunately, this doesn't apply to breakfast. Like other Mediterranean residents, ordinary Cypriots don't usually indulge in more than a cup of coffee in the morning. But beware, the next culture clash is already looming: the Cypriot version of the caffeine drink is as strong as five Italian espressos at the same time and has the peculiarity that its coffee powder is brewed directly in the cup – so you have to be very careful if you don't want to get the black bits between your teeth. Having mastered the challenge, we set off inland by car, past ancient olive groves and along the picturesque Limassol wine route, which bears witness to the island's wine-growing culture dating back over 5,500 years.
After just under 90 minutes, we reach the capital Nicosia. The so-called Greenline, a 180 km long buffer zone that separates the EU member Cyprus from the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, the part of the island that has been occupied by Turkey since 1974, runs right through its historic center, which is surrounded by a Venetian city wall, making Nicosia, with its 280,000 inhabitants, the last divided capital in the world – and probably also the reason why it is far less touristy than the rest of the island. Yet nowhere is it as safe and easy for vacationers to cross the border between north and south as here: From the Ledra shopping street, there is a short passage through the middle of the buffer zone. It takes less than five minutes to get through to the Turkish part. It is all the more surprising to find yourself in a completely different world on the other side: Incomes are lower, unemployment is higher, there is a different currency, the Turkish lira, which is at a permanent low against the dollar. And while Greek-speaking Christians make up the majority of the population in the south of Cyprus, Turkish-speaking Muslims make up the majority in the north.
One place you should definitely visit in the part of the city occupied by Turkey is Büyük Han, a caravanserai from the 16th century, a kind of hostel that also served as a warehouse and trading center. Today it houses a variety of sweet stores and restaurants.
Back in the south, our hunger leads us straight to "Beba", a modern restaurant with excellent service. We were lucky enough to get a table in the tree-shaded backyard. In this idyllic location, we order the Cypriot classic par excellence: súwla, a well-marbled pork neck cooked on a spit over a charcoal grill. For the nightcap, we move on to the slightly out-of-the-way, cult-kitschy "Bar Souvenir", where the national drink of Cyprus, introduced by the British, is already waiting for us: the brandy sour. Ice cold, of course. Jámas!
On Sunday, we sleep in until the swelling heat gradually wakes us up. Temperatures of over 40 degrees are not uncommon in Cyprus in the summer months. Its 326 days of sunshine a year make the island a true vacation paradise, but a nightmare for the water supply. Speaking of water: of course, beach vacationers and water sports enthusiasts also get their money's worth in Cyprus. This applies in particular to the south coast of the island, which the locals affectionately call their "bathtub". A natural wonder awaits us at Governor's Beach between Limassol and Larnaca. Wind and water have left spectacular rock formations on the cliffs and the white rock forms an attractive contrast to the dark sand.
Larnaca itself, which is one of the 20 oldest cities in the world, is also a literal idyll. Although Larnaca International Airport is the central hub for the majority of travelers to Cyprus, the coastal town lacks little in the way of tranquility.
The palm-lined Phinikoudes beach promenade is the heart of Larnaka. Just behind it is the restored old town of Laiki Geitonia with its shady alleyways, quaint tavernas and cute craft stores. The landmark of this district is the church of St. Lazarus, which was built in the 9th century. Legend has it that the aforementioned Lazarus brought Christianity to Lárnaka –or rather Kition, as the town was still called back then – after Jesus raised him from the dead. If you want to take a trip into the past to get to know the aforementioned original Larnaka, it is best to make a detour to the archaeological excavation site of Kition.
However, we are drawn to a culinary attraction, without which any trip to Cyprus would be a disgrace: we are talking about the traditional farmer's cheese Challúmi. Although it can now be found under its English name "halloumi" in every well-stocked supermarket in this country, it is no match for what is on offer here on the island. At Loulla Eefthimious goat farm, not far from Choirokoitia, we learn first-hand how the cult cheese is traditionally made and eat it fresher than ever before in our lives – simply sprinkled with salt and mint on one side. The lady of the house serves it with slices of cucumber and tomato – as simple as it is delicious!
Meze Taverna (1)
Family-run restaurant in the old town with an extensive menu and rustic atmosphere. As the name suggests, the restaurant specializes in the island's national dish: Méze.
Agiou Andreou 209, 3036 Limassol
T: +357 25 367 333, mezetaverna.com
Kofini Tavern (2)
Traditional restaurant on the coast of Limassol, whose guests rave about the "Kanelónia" there. But beware, this is not an Italian pasta dish, but traditional Cypriot pancakes topped with challúmi.
Leoforos Amathountos 78, 3036 Limassol
T: +357 25 310332
kuzuba (1)
A local favorite that focuses on regionality and seasonality with its Greek-Cypriot cuisine. It's best to share dishes to try as much as possible.
Kyriakou Matsi 54, 1060 Nicosia
T: +357 99865444, kuzuba.com.cy
Beba (2)
Modern grill restaurant that only opened in 2018 with large panoramic windows and minimalist furnishings. Some of the dishes are surprisingly ambitious. Don't miss the grilled octopus.
Pindarou 2a, 1060 Nicosia
T: +357 22252626
Pyxida (3)
Excellent fish restaurant. Here, the catch of the day is served fresher than anywhere else in the city in the form of tuna carpaccio, perch or grilled octopus.
Menandrou 5, 1066 Nicosia
T: +357 22 445636, pyxidafishtavern.com
Bar Souvenir (1)
Hidden bar with retro vibes, live music, delicious snacks and refreshing cocktails. The terrace invites you to linger - until late into the night.
Makariou Avenue 43-1075, 1065 Nicosia
T: +357 99 758578, barsouvenir.com
Granazi (2)
This cosy bar impresses with its rustic yet modern design. Sophisticated cocktails meet Cypriot dishes.
Leoforos, Agion Omologiton 14, 1080 Nicosia
T: +357 22 681660, granazi.eu
Brunch
Edems Yard (1)
The much-praised brunch spot lives up to its hype: generous portions at an affordable price. For spontaneous visitors only.
Evanthias pieridou larnaca CY, 4021 Larnaka
T: +357 99 823845, edems-yard.com
Restaurants
Milizis (1)
Traditional Cypriot cuisine with dishes from the wood-fired oven and carefully selected meze in a taverna with a marvellous view right by the sea.
6026 Larnaka
T: +357 24 655867, militzis.com
To Kafe tis Chrysanthis (2)
The family-run café in the city centre impresses with its fantastic breakfast, homemade cakes and sophisticated design.
Ifaistou 1, 6026 Larnaka
T:+ 357 24256262, tokafetischrysanthis.com
Stou Roussia (3)
A permanent fixture on the island's culinary map. The taverna specialises in grilled and traditional dishes - and at a good price.
26, Nicolaou laniti str, 6022 Larnaka
T:+357 96 509590
Amara Hotel Cyprus (1)
This 5-star retreat has been designed as a living panorama camera. The infinity pool, Michelin-starred restaurants and luxurious spa speak for themselves.
95 Amathus Avenue, 4533 Limassol
T: +357 2544 2222, amarahotel.com/en
The Four Seasons Hotel Limassol (2)
The 5-star hotel impresses with its exclusive beach access, several pools and 3 award-winning restaurants as well as the exclusive Four Seasons Spa.
67-69 Amathountos Avenue, 4532 Limassol
T: +357 25 858 000, fourseasons.com
Parklane, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa (3)
In theory, you don't have to leave this luxury resort. Several pools, an extensive spa and fitness program, tennis courts and direct beach access round off your stay.
11 Giannou Kranidioti Street, 4534 Limassol
T: +357 25862000, marriott.com
The Agora Hotel - Pano Lefkara (4)
The Danish owners transformed the former market into an exclusive adult hotel in Scandi-style. It impresses with its intimate size with only 18 rooms. Guests can relax by the saltwater courtyard pool.
Timiou Stavrou 25, 7700 Pano Lefkara
theagorahotel.com
MAP Hotel, Nicosia (5)
Contemporary statement hotel in the middle of the historic old town. The interior design is bold: monochrome accents, with echoes of Bauhaus and Art Déco. The in-house restaurant offers innovative pan-Mediterranean cuisine.
15, Stasinou Avenue, 1060, Nicosia
T: +357 22 444999, maphotel.com.cy
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