Momofuku Ssäm Bar

92
Falstaff Magazine International Nr. 0/2021 - SixPack

David Chang’s influence on New York City›s dining scene and beyond has been huge: anything new or re- imagined from his growing stab- le of restaurants always merits attention. With the lease on the original Ssäm Bar coming to an end, Chang has decided to re-locate the restaurant from its East Villa- ge home of fifteen years to the South Street Seaport, the historic waterfront district spa- ce that was previously home to Wayõ cock- tail bar. Head Chef Eunjo Park’s New York Kore- an menu has fire-cracking hits all over it, kicking off with chilli jam popcorn shrimp, the gochujang-based sauce inspired by dak kang jung, sweet and crisp nuggets of shrimp replacing chicken, as a nod to this new seaport location. Park’s signature dishes include her kimbap (Korean sushi rolls), like extremely spicy scallop with crispy tempura & a pick- led onion-shiso kimbap. The famous ssäm makes an appearance via versions that include a sizzling skirt steak, galbi-marina- ted and sliced and served with watercress, onions, garlic and ssämjang. Rice cakes with cacio e pepe, black truffle and par- mesan; spicy pork sausage ragù with Chine- se broccoli and Sichuan peppercorn – it’s all a riotous progression of lip-tingling fla- vours, full of verve. The wine list is a vinous playground, with a strong grower Champagne list and savvy picks of Riesling from Klaus-Peter Keller in Rheinhessen and Sauvignon Blanc from Shaw + Smith in Australia’s Adelaide Hills.

47 /50 Food
17 /20 Service
20 /20 Wine
8 /10 Style
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